Sometimes our fishmonger
gives me pointers. Yesterday he had
fresh, whole Snapper and suggested I broil or grill it with lots of garlic. This triggered my memory cells from another
episode of our travels.
Typical mini-bus that transported me to an idyllic paradise where I was told there was nothing ("nada")
During regular
visits in winter time to the State of Jalisco, Mexico, I came across a local
mini-bus departing from Puerto Vallarta. Being a nomad, wanderer and bohemian
by nature, always looking for something new and different, I asked the driver
where he was heading. He replied (in Spanish of course), “Oh, just to a small
fishing village, you’d not be interested, there’s nothing there.” “Nada”.
Curious about this insignificant hamlet, I hopped on and paid the ‘hefty’ fare
of 8 pesos (a taxi would have been $70 return), sat back and relaxed. I was the
only Gringo on the bus. The route is
scenic, with the Pacific on your right all the way.
On the way to our destination, we pass by the location where the film "Night of the Iguana"
with Ava Gardner and Richard Burton was made
with Ava Gardner and Richard Burton was made
When we say scenic, it’s
not the Amalfi drive of Italy, nevertheless it’s not only scenic but there’s
not much traffic apart from a few buses, taxis and the occasional local car. Along
the way, you pass by the location where “Night of the Iguana” was filmed, with
Richard Burton and Ava Gardner. (Elizabeth Taylor was there with Richard Burton, but she was not in the film.). The end stop, after 40
mins, is a tiny fishing village. A
cobblestone street leads down to a horse-shoe shaped bay and a tiny, idyllic
paradise.
Boca de Tomatlan, Mexico. Few houses and more pelicans
than people. So much for the driver’s
comment about “nothing”. Besides a 6-room ‘hotel’, there were only two
restaurants, both on the beach.
Natasha enjoys the peaceful and quiet beach
One had
a terrace built on the sand. The other was plain and simple with just 5 tables
run by a family. Mother was in the kitchen;
husband supervised an outdoor grill, and also served. There was a bright-eyed young
girl, barefoot, about 4 years old, Manuela. Their specialty = Huachinango con ajo (Red Snapper with garlic). The same method our
fishmonger here in James Bay, Victoria suggested, some years later.
Waiting with a friend for our Huachinango in the cosy restaurant
We ordered the special along with a cool beer
or cerveza. The grilled fish and beer
were served by the owner. Tortillas were
brought by the little senorita, who put a small basket on our table with a big
smile. Very conscientious and proud. Following
this delicious meal in that humble restaurant and paradise-like setting, we
praised the chef et al, handing in
the bill with a tip.
Stepping out onto the
sandy beach, we strolled along the seashore to watch the pelicans diving for their meal.Suddenly I felt a gentle push
on my back and a pull on my shirt. There
stood Manuela, our little senorita.
Barefoot and all, with eyes wide open and serious-looking. There are many little Manuela’s in the world
still today.
There are many Manuelas in the world today
She held one hand outstretched and with the other, gestured eating
a meal. It dawned on us, Manuela also wanted her tip, for serving the tortillas!
Of course we tipped her generously, which changed her serious expression into a
huge smile. She said, “Muchas gracias”. How’s that for standing
up for your rights, and survival instinct?
Henri van Bentum
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